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Omega Pacific Speed Knobs

Original Post
TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

Recently I got some old screws and decided to retrofit them with Omega Pacific Speed Knobs from Acme Climbing: acmeclimbing.com/omegapacif… - which are about $3 each.

See pics below. One screw is a Black Diamond Turbo and the other two are unknown mfr. The speed know doesn't fit that well on the BD screw. There's not enough depth in the channel cut to fit the knob to the correct place. The other two screws have slightly different dimensions so fit better.

You'll see in the close up that all three knobs are not a precise fit as the nut is not completely flush. Oh well. I put some liquid nails on one nut as test to see if add'l glue might help. I'll try to test them out this weekend to see how they work.

One thing I noticed is that the knob takes up some space in the carabiner hole, so it might be harder to clip.

With retrofit speed knobs

Close up view

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

The 2 screws that the knobs fit on are either Smiley or OP screws. I believe that smiley sold the mill spec (you machinists can correct me) to OP. that is why the speed knobs fit those better.
In the day the smiley screws were a great alternative to BD and a bunch cheaper (early 90s)
Dallen

TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

Thanks for the info on the OP Smiley screws. I've done some google searches and they indeed look to be that. If they are OP Smiley screws it's too bad that the speed knobs don't fit precisely. I may cut the channel deeper for a better fit, but if they work as-is I probably won't bother.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

The knobs won't work on the BD screws unless they are parallel to the tube. The one in your pic will be just about useless. To get them straight, you need to attach the knob at the "apex" of the hanger. As you've found out, the slot in the knob is too narrow and too short to fit. So get busy with a small file and widen/deepen it. Then round off the shoulder of the nut so it grabs at least 1/2 the threads and snugs up into the concavity at the top of the hanger hole. Finally, epoxy it all in place.

If this is too much fuss, I believe Jason at AnIceScrew.com can do the job for you.

garrettem · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 575

Like Gunkiemike said file them a bit and epoxy it on there and it will work well. I actually just used super glue on a few BD screws I did that too and they've worked great for the last several years.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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