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Omega Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annals of Time T 
Dihedral of Horrors T 
Edge of Horror, The T 
Guardian of Death T 
Manufactured Crisis T 
Omega Crack T,S 
Omega Triangle T 
Unsorted Routes:

Omega Crack 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Hans Johnstone/Greg Collins - Originally equipped by Sam Lightner
Page Views: 2,846
Submitted By: Forest on Sep 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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OMEGA CRACK - P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.12b

The finest rock route I've done in the Tetons. Exceptional rock. Very clean cracks, with technical and powerful face climbing. Far and away the steepest crack in the Tetons.


From Death Canyon TH: Follow trail 100m past slabs at the base of Omega Buttress. Follow scree slope up and right until easy 5th class ledges. Follow easy ledges to the base of the overhanging wall.

One double rope rappel to the base of the climb. Follow easy ledges down and west until a tree with slings is found. One double rope rappel brings one back to the top of the scree slope.


10 Quickdraws
1 Set of stoppers
1 Set of Friends with two extra of #2, #3
1 Long sling

Photos of Omega Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Location and approach
BETA PHOTO: Location and approach

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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Sep 7, 2007

This is the best rock climb in the Tetons. It is perhaps the steepest crack I have ever been on. That being the case, rappellling down it with only one 60 would be horrid. If you go to the top your partner has to go to the top as well.
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Jul 5, 2008

Sam, maybe it would be more accurate to call it "the best west-facing hand crack of two pitches on central Omega Buttress". Best rock climb in GTNP? Hmmm.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Jun 20, 2012

This thing is burly right off the deck.

What's the deal with the old fixed line to the left of the route?
By Gee Double
Jun 14, 2014

No amount of typing on your keyboard will get bolts, hand drilled, in this overhang or a red point of this route. 60 m rope is ok. I would recommend 2 rattly hand sized cams for pitch 2, and taping hands at the belay. Yes, I am afraid so, I made the send. The approach is fine from Dihedral of Horrors/Guardian of Death, the normal route.
By Max Bechdel
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 15, 2016

PS - to get on the ledges go pretty far left up the gully until it's obviously the last 5th class spot you can climb up (to the right). Then easier ledge traversing to the base of the climb.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Aug 22, 2017

This thing is super fun! Not sure about extra rattly hand sizes. The only doubles we had were #1 C4s. (used both) Didn't place the 3 at all. The cracks are pretty poddy and varied and you can usually make something else work.

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