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Old Yeller 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Dec 9, 2006

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An attractive way to reach the summit of the spire. Climbs easy face holds and an s-shaped crack up the sunny west face of the garden spire. It gets a bit steeper at the top and begins to feel exposed.

Location 

Easily viewed from the approach into the Garden, the start of this climb is reached by traversing in from the north side of the Spire near the two sport routes. It may be a good idea to anchor the belayer as there is another 50 ft of cliff beneath this ledge.

Protection 

Standard rack. A single 1/4" bolt with home-made hanger is at the steep section towards the top.


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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Clinton, TN
Dec 9, 2006

Some of the crack systems directly below the starting ledge for old-yeller have some fun climbing. The large blackened crack to the left looks promising as a trad-lead. The more discontinuous stuff just under the ledge would be scary to lead and have some very loose rocks (even the stuff that looks solid), but makes a fun top-rope.

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