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Old Yellar Dome
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Old Yellar S 

Old Yellar 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: [S. Hong & P. Adams]
Page Views: 4,853
Submitted By: Adam Holmes on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Photo by Jeff Parmenter

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Long, technical, steep, pumpy -- what more could you ask for? Old Yellar is a great granite route that's technical down low. Then, midway up, you enter a vicious undercling to enter the steep second half with a heartbreak crux at the end. It's well worth the short hike to get up there.


9 bolts + anchors

Photos of Old Yellar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt about to start the "upper crux".
Matt about to start the "upper crux".
Rock Climbing Photo: Kai nearing the top.
Kai nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of Old Yellar Dome
BETA PHOTO: At the base of Old Yellar Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff sending
Jeff sending

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2016
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2016

The 7th bolt is currently missing a hanger and nut. In this state, it's quite committing to make the run from the 6th to the 8th bolt (the crux of the route). We were able to minimize the runout by hanging a quad draw from the 8th. You can clip the ultra long draw from the jugs down and right of the crux and then are protected quite well for the crux traverse left. I will try to replace the hanger if the stud's threads are in good condition. Just be aware of this....
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 1, 2004

First ascent: Hong / Adams.
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2006

This route is amazing. Definitely a heartbreak crux at the end. Long, sustained, and pumpy for sure. Sick!!
By Joe Collins
Jun 11, 2007

This route has 4-star climbing with 2-star rock quality. Several key holds may not stand the test of time, particularly the key crimp where you move back left near the 2nd to last bolt.

Steepest route in the Front Range? The crux may be in figuring out how get a warm up for it.
By Jesse Ryan
Nov 22, 2008

Crux crimp broke this summer. Have not been on it since, likely harder now.
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Got on this rig today, I think it gets my vote for best 13a on the Front Range. Awesome line. Nice and stout.

Didn't notice any broken or missing's all there.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 3, 2009

Well, first you'd have to get people to agree on which routes on the Front Range are 13a. Good luck with that!
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

...yeah, pretty sure I'm not going to waste my time with that one.
By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Was up there today, 4.4.10, and my friend broke off the the low crux undercling. It still goes but is harder. Between that hold and the high crimp having broken a while back, this thing now feels more 13b than 13a.
By chris schulte
Jun 14, 2010

Are the listed projects still projects?
By Swavek Gaik
From: Superior, CO
Jan 29, 2012

Somebody stole the hanger from the sixth bolt. I replaced it, but leave it alone. If you feel too safe, just don't clip it (or any other bolts).
By Brett Merlin
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Took down and threw away all the fixed tat on this line on 3/24/12. They were completely sun-bleached and sketchy looking.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2016

5 star route. Zero star approach. Worth it though, and I would say it's a contender for one of the top 13a's in the state. So, so good!