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Old Walley 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Hoffman
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on May 26, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Old Walley heads out left at the small bulge on aw...

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Description 

So you've climbed to the small roof on the Whistle Stop and you're wondering what if I went left out this cool little roof... Well, its exciting! I used a .75, a .5, and some metolius off-sets equailzed in a horizontal when I did this, as far as I know Joel Unema is the only repeat (he probably just used ball-nutz!) Anyhow, Crank up and left through the roof into decent lock on hollow sounding rock. Place a piece and move left onto the face. I placed gear in a thin horizontal and then headed straight up to the anchors of Sunnyside. Definitely need a TR to clean this variation. R rating because I feel a fall pulling the roof could be pretty catastrophic as well as the moves on the face. I intentionally did not put a bolt in the face. Not everyone needs to climb this line, but if you do I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Location 

Alternate finish to the Whistle Stop. Second should clean.

Protection 

Bolts, gear from small to .75BD (can't remember for sure what I used)


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