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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Ivory Coast S,TR 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 

Old Tradition 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 613
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Floyd Hayes leading Old Tradition 5.7. Photo by Ro...


The easiest start is on the right side of the face. Traverse left under the arching overhang past the first overhanging crack (which is another route, Old Spice 5.9), ascend a crack through a small and easy overhang (5.6), continue up a slab and finish on a steep headwall (5.7) protected by a nut (and a marginal cam) in a thin flaring crack. To descend, rappel the route or walk left (west) and downclimb a short (10') class 4 section at the end of the rock.


Rock just uphill from War Party and The Chief, and below Hummingbird Spire.


Cams and nuts up to 2". At the top there is an unnecessary double-bolt anchor with quick links for rappelling (good cracks for gear).

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By Floyd Hayes
Nov 12, 2009

This climb is listed as an unnamed 5.8 top rope in Tresa Black's "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area" and Chris Summit's "Wine Country Rocks," but it is a well protected trad climb and I think it's easier than 5.8. However, a direct start on the unprotected face may well be 5.8.
By Floyd Hayes
May 23, 2011

The face to the left can be top-roped; the lower section is about 5.9 and the upper section is about 5.8. The arete at the far left can also be top-roped at about 5.10a. Beware of some loose blocks in the middle of both climbs.
By Pat H
From: Berkeley, CA
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

By St. Helena standards, I thought there were plenty of places for good protection on this route. A very small cam (I used an .2 X4) was useful in the middle of the route.

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