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"Old Timer's Route" 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall, & Winter
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Mar 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Old Timer's Route

Description 

Beautiful colors on the lower section make this line very photogenic. Move through hand cracks up and left to reach the right facing dihedral. Near the top the looseness will freak you out. Do not stop at the old anchor (two 1/4" star heads with rusty hangers that might give psychological pro) but move up and right prior to heading back left to the summit.

Location 

West side of first tower.

Protection 

See photo but bring everything! Especially tricams and runners. You will find what you need on top.


Photos of "Old Timer's Route" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The second(?) ascent rack
BETA PHOTO: The second(?) ascent rack
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the business in the Dr. Suess-like bu...
Getting into the business in the Dr. Suess-like bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Old Timers' tattered webbing and button heads,...
The Old Timers' tattered webbing and button heads,...

Comments on "Old Timer's Route" Add Comment
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By Mitch Y
Mar 22, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A true desert classic! Everything is solid and fun climbing all throughout! Begin in the bulgy, red stripped rock and follow the broken crack system up, placing gear as often as possible it seems. Jam up the pillar, using both sides if you wish, but watch the top of it as it is a little loose. Get a great stance on top and jam up the awesome dihedral. Once you reach the broken section, traverse left to the most solid of flakes. Layback this baby and enjoy the great feet under the roof. Be sure to have some long runners on the flake to prevent rope drag. We built a gear anchor at the old anchor (DO NOT TRUST THE OLD BOLTS), then went to the top from there to avoid pulling loose blocks on top.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Feb 15, 2016

A fun jaunt on a nice little tower close to the road. The rock is decent, and we trundled a handful of the more obvious loose blocks off of it to help clean it up some. There are still things to be wary of, but it's mostly choss-free. Summit register is soaked unfortunately.

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