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Old Stagecoach Road

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Augustin's Flake T 
Cactus Karma T 
Forest's Face T 
Monkeywrenchin' Momma S 
No. 1 G S 
Piton Crack T 
Po'Pay's Revolt S 
Pockets S 
Prow , The S 
Stem It Black T 
Sunburned S,TR 

Old Stagecoach Road Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,300'
Location: 36.537, -105.7082 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,774
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Dec 14, 2006
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Description 

The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.

See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.

The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.

Getting There 

Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.6 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Old Stagecoach Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old Stagecoach Road:
Sunburned   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old Stagecoach Road

Featured Route For Old Stagecoach Road

Stem It Black 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  New Mexico : Taos Area : ... : Old Stagecoach Road
'Stem It Black' is the obvious black corner toward the left side of Stagecoach Wall. The rock is crumbly off the ground, but improves somewhat higher up.As suggested, good stemming the whole way....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Old Stagecoach Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Archive Photo of the John Dunn Bridge around 1900 ...
Archive Photo of the John Dunn Bridge around 1900 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag right.  Sho...
BETA PHOTO: View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag right. Sho...
Rock Climbing Photo: View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag left end.  ...
BETA PHOTO: View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag left end. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A more recent photo of the view from the base of t...
A more recent photo of the view from the base of t...

Comments on Old Stagecoach Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Laura Fremgen
From: Missoula, Montana
May 6, 2013
There's another route with chains left of The Prow, right of No. 1 G not listed on here...possibly a 5.9?
By Nickolas V
Sep 10, 2013
Watch out for desert bighorn sheep on top of this crag! My buddy and I came face to face with 3 of them up there this summer. Gave us a good startling moment, could have fallen off the crag if we had jumped a little more. To be fair though, I think we scared them as much as they did us. Just keep an eye out, they blend in amazingly well against the brown-red basalt.

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