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18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Livin' on a Prayer S 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
War Party S,TR 

Old Spice 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Dec 9, 2013

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Floyd Hayes leading Old Spice 5.9, which ascends a...

Description 

Start on the right side of the face, traverse left under the arching overhang and ascend the first crack through an overhang (5.9). Continue up a slab and finish on Old Tradition 5.7 or move right to finish on easier terrain. Note that Old Tradition ascends a smaller and easier overhang to the left. To descend, rappel the route or walk left (west) and downclimb a short (10') class 4 section at the end of the rock.

Location 

Rock just uphill from War Party and The Chief, and below Hummingbird Spire. The route is several feet to the right of Old Tradition.

Protection 

Cams up to 1.5". At the top there is an unnecessary double-bolt anchor with quick links for rappelling (good cracks for gear).


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By Floyd Hayes
Dec 9, 2013

I first climbed this with Andrew Taylor on November 17, 2013.

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