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Old Scratch 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: ChrisHau on May 16, 2016

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  • Description 

    A great line that breaches the steepest part of the buttress.

    Begin with a difficult boulder problem involving a couple of long moves between a blocky jug and a few sculpted crimpers. Cruiser terrain leads to a ledge rest at the third bolt. Thuggy climbing through the black rock of the roof ends with a cruxy lip encounter to establish on the face.

    Rest up while you stare down a perplexingly blank section. After unlocking some "a-ha!" beta, finagle your way to your second no-hands rest of the route. Keep your guard up, however; a final crux awaits on the dirty slab just before the anchors, involving a balancey sequence on sloping pockets.

    Varied, cool climbing up a proud feature.

    Location 

    Start just right of the prominent crack that cleaves the buttress.

    Protection 

    Bolts, nylon permas on the roof bolts. Two-bolt anchor.


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