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Old School Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bang Bang S 
Boo S 
Dag Nasty Part Deux S 
Diamond Dogs S 
Old School S 
Old Stone Crab S 
Spot S 
Unknown name S 

Old School Rock Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009


49° | 36°

61° | 42°

47° | 29°

41° | 27°

42° | 27°
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  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Old School Rock is a limestone buttress that separates two steep, loose gullies. The buttress is home to a handful of bolted lines including a rarity in American Fork Canyon: a multi-pitch route.

    The rock is steep, solid, and mostly lacks the pockets for which American Fork is known. Instead, the climbing is devious face climbing on small edges with the occasional jug. Most of the lines have a ledge or two allowing decent rests.

    Getting There 

    Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.

    The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route on Visionary Wall.

    For the three routes on the south side of the buttress, head up the gully along the base of Visionary Wall and cross the steep, loose gully when you are more-or-less level with the routes.

    For the rest of the routes continue another hundred feet or so and head up along the south side of the next rock outcropping that almost reaches the streambed.

    About a 12-minute walk.

    Route List 

    South side of buttress, left-to-right (i.e., starting uphill):

    1. Spot 5.11b
    2. Boo Direct 5.12a/b (shares start and anchors with Boo)
    3. Boo 5.11c

    East side of buttress:

    4. Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9
    5. Old Stone Crab 5.10a (one long pitch, shares most of Old School's first pitch).
    6. Old School 5.10b (two pitches, starts on east face)

    North side of buttress (still left-to-right):

    7. Diamond Dogs 5.11d
    8. Bang Bang 5.11c

    North side of gully north of buttress (south-facing):

    9. Unknown name 5.11b

    Climbing Season

    For the Tank Canyon area.

    Weather station 1.5 miles from here

    8 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Old School Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old School Rock:
    Old School   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old School Rock

    Featured Route For Old School Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Belay at base of tree on natural ledge.  Notice th...

    Old School 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Old School Rock
    It's rare in American Fork Canyon that you climb well above the tops of the tallest trees; this route combines fun exposure, a great, secluded location, and some good climbing.P1 (5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Comments on Old School Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By apross
    Aug 1, 2009
    The unnamed #10 rte is a 12a called Inky. Stick clip the first bolt, a good bouldery rte. 2/3 stars

    The 2 rtes at the top of the gully on the right are left to right.

    Spot 11a/b. Some nice climbing on good rock, crux low down. 2 stars

    Boo 11c. If you finish up the arete. 3 stars
    Boo direct 12a/b. If you go straight up the face to the anchor. 2 stars
    By BJB
    From: Texas
    Aug 4, 2015

    Maybe this description makes sense when the stream is running, but when it's dry, I looked for about 1 1/2 hours before I found this area. This is my description of the approach ASSUMING THE STREAM IS DRY:

    Follow the stream until you reach a big cliff that reaches almost into the streambed. This wall has one bolted route on it. This is Bug Bannanas from the miscellaneous routes.

    (If you stay on the right side of the stream, you are going to walk past Two O'Clock Rock and the miscellaneous route Warthog before you get to the Visionary / Old School area)

    Keep following the stream bed past Bug Bannanas. On your left in (I believe) the next gully/canyon, you will see obvious belay ledges on the left side of the gully. The left wall/side of the gully is Visionary Wall. The right wall/side of the gully is Old School.

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