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Old Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FRA: Brad White & Matt Peer Summer 2011
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Looking down from the pine tree belay to Pitch Thr...


Start about 20-25 ft left, and 30-35 ft above the toe of rock. (many variations)

[Admin's note- June 2016: Was up on "Tears" 6-24-16 and saw 3 gals who had mistaken the start of "The Waco Kid" (on the "Left Wing" AREA) for the start of "Old Route". I think the leader got to the 5.9 move on "Waco's P2" and then backed off, sounded like she downclimbed it. (Good for her!) But don't make the same mistake and go too far left. If you are near/at the correct START, you should be able to see the white slab and bolt(s) of Manifest Destiny at about your level and 20-25 ft to the right. R. Hall ]

P1 – Climb 25’ up a short slab to a tree ledge and follow a vegetated groove to a two bolt anchor on the left side of a large white flake system. 50’ 5.4

P2 – Step right from the belay and layback the entire left side of the flake to a shallow corner. (Great Climbing!) Climb the open corner till a small finger crack crosses it. Follow the fingercrack up and left for 25’ then back right to a gear belay in a thin left facing flake. 115’ 5.7 (medium sized gear for belay)

(Var. #1) Climb up right side of the big white flake above small trees for 15’ and cross over left to a fixed pin in the center. Step left into the layback flake and climb straight up to the shallow left facing corner.
(Var. #2) 5.8 PG 13, Layback and climb straight up to the fixed angle piton, then face climb up the left arête of the flake. When you come to where the finger crack crosses the corner continue straight up to protection on the left side of the triangular block and then up and left to the belay flake.
(Var. #3) Climb entire right side of flake as for “Manifest Destiny” and cross over at the left slanting crack. This is the easiest way to get to the open corner above.

P3 – Climb up slightly right 20’ to a white jug below a shallow groove with a hidden red tri-cam pocket. From the pocket, slab climb up and left to a small overlap then straight up white face above to a large flake that is followed left to the large pine tree. 60’ 5.5

P4 – Climb up low angle ramp on left for 30’ to an open corner. Climb right side of corner up through overlaps to a two bolt ring anchor. 70’ 5.5 PG 13

FA: Unknown, but a fixed pin and pin scars say “long ago”. Pitch two and three can be combined with a 70 meter rope and lots of long slings. Route description and P1 and P4 anchors are from Brad White and Matt Peer Summer 2011.


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Standard Rack

Photos of Old Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Peer on the middle groove of pitch two Old ro...
Matt Peer on the middle groove of pitch two Old ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad White leads the second pitch flake of Old Rou...
Brad White leads the second pitch flake of Old Rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of Old Route
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Old Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Lincoln Tetherly follows P2 on Old Route. Photo by...
Lincoln Tetherly follows P2 on Old Route. Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Garlough belays Lincoln Tetherly on P3 of...
Jonathan Garlough belays Lincoln Tetherly on P3 of...

Comments on Old Route Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Linked with P1 of "Manifest" (see comment on that route) and did the straight-up-to-the piton on P2, but above the pin face climbed UP-and-LEFT (5.7) back to the regular route.
Three pieces of Beta:
1) P2 is longer than 115 ft, I would put it at about 135-140 ft of rope. Even leaving gear at the flake belay, I really doubt a single 70M-rap (115ft) would make it back to the anchor.
2) The corner/crack 3+/- ft below the new fixed pin (about 1/2 way up P2) accepts a thin wired nut if you brush away the moss.
3) From reading the route description, I though I'd be climbing the thin crack to the gear belay, but when you're there it's clear you leave the crack and face/slab climb to the belay.
Also, on P3 I first fiddled with a red TriCam, then switched to the PINK, which went in easily.
We found "booty" at the P3 belay. Identify specifically with WHAT, including colors, in an e-mail and include your snail mail address.

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