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Old Route 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 330'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: George Austin, Fritz Weissner
Page Views: 2,041
Submitted By: Mike McLean on Jul 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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From the top of pitch 1


Pitch 1: 100' - Follow the nice chimney. Exit right at the last chockstone and belay from a tree (choose wisely as there are many dead trees up there)

PItch 2: 70' - Up and to the left of the black streaks

Pitch 3: 150'

Descent: With rope stretch, a 60 metre rap from the top of pitch 2 will bring you to the ground (don't forget those knots). On a double rope rap, you'll NEED to rap down through the chimney if you're going to make it.

See the excellent Adirondack Rock guide for full details and topo.


Standard rack. Tree anchors.

Photos of Old Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JF leading P1
JF leading P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of pitch 1

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By TheIceManCometh
From: Albany, NY
Sep 5, 2011

Climbed the first pitch of the Old Route over Labor Day weekend, right after Hurricane Irene, which closed much of the High Peaks including Chapel Pond.

Hurricane Crag was deserted. Not one other party. High 70s, slight breeze. With my 12 yr old son, John.

Forgot my nut tool and left a #7 Metolius Stopper. :(

Good protection all the way. Solid 5.4.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the belay of the first pitch.
Looking down from the belay of the first pitch.
By Kurtz
Sep 10, 2012

P1 is great fun! Fritz sure can pick 'em. If you're over 6 ft tall expect a bit of a squeeze in places. Also, there's some loose rock (assuming I didn't knock it all down) on the right-side wall about 1/3 of the way up.
By Mark Trotta
From: Latham, NY
Jun 24, 2013

Followed P1 of this route yesterday. It was a perfect way to end a hot humid day because of the perpetual cold draft throughout the chimney which both leader and lead belayer benefit from. I don't know if it's always wet inside or if those were the conditions that day only but plan on getting soaking wet and dirty. Leave the chalk bag in your pack. If you approach P1 more like a caving experience (headlamp might aid in placing gear) and less of a rock climbing route, you'll really enjoy it. With that approach, i'd give it 4 out of 5 stars rather than the 1 out of 5 that is in the guide book. But again, we didn't do the remaining two pitches. I had a great time and recommend it to anyone. A full rack should suffice.

Safety note: there IS a pile of loose rock in there so be careful. Belayer should stay clear of the chimney; sitting on the ledge a few feet up and right of the entrance is a great spot for the belayer. He/She can benefit from the cool breeze and be free from rockfall.

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