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Old Route Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: P1 "Direct" Ben Smith and Matt Barker , original line AMC-ers in the 1930's ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: RW contemplates the slab above Bolt#1

Description 

NOTE: The route described was as we did it, our P2 and/or beginning of P3 may not be the exact line of the FA.

Start at the "toe" of the slab. (photo)

P1 - Pad up the smooth, unprotected slab [5.5 R?] to the first overlap and a bolt. Over the overlap (crux, 5.7 / 5.7-) and then continue straight up the magnificent slab above, passing a 2nd bolt. We belayed under an overlap above, but I think a much better belay (gear) is to the right in a curved flake (photo) 120 ft 5.7 / 5.7-

NOTE: Either P1 and P2 can be combined, or P2 and P3, but we thought is very pleasant as a 3-pitch climb.

P2 - We followed sort of a diagonal slash up and right through overlaps to a good stance and gear belay just left of the pegmatite. 75-90 ft 5.5

P3 - Up and slightly left-ish through impressive looking overlaps, passing a Lost Arrow piton [photo], to a double bolt anchor. A very interesting pitch, in that the overlaps are "tricky" in that a foot or two and a different sequence can make the moves a grade or two different. 80 feet 5.5 to 5.7 depending..

DESCENT - You can rap from the double bolt anchor (2 ropes ) to the double bolt anchor on Contact [off to rapeller's/ climber's right] and then to the ground, or if you want to go back to the car...

P4 - Climb the clean, low angle slab above. Go through a small tree island to a bit more rock above and end at a flattish boulder about 3 ft across. 100 ft Class 3/4
From here, move up and right generally keeping to the rock, then cut back left-ish up with a class 3 or two move on trees/rock to the trees where you should hit a boundry-survey line. Follow this down and climber's left. When you "cliff out" at a survey sign and post-in-rock, backtrack 40-50 ft and descend the gully back to the "path" to the road.

Location 

At the "toe" of the main slab.

Protection 

Usual rack, although we didn't use anything larger than a #1 (red, Camalot). Remember, there are two consecutive gear anchors on this route.


Photos of Old Route Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: START of Old Route Direct, RW at Bolt #1
BETA PHOTO: START of Old Route Direct, RW at Bolt #1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Right, roughly 100 ft up P1 - Is this a go...
BETA PHOTO: Looking Right, roughly 100 ft up P1 - Is this a go...
Rock Climbing Photo: Further up P3 - Ralph is about where the old Lost ...
BETA PHOTO: Further up P3 - Ralph is about where the old Lost ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at P3 from our P2 belay stance. There a...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at P3 from our P2 belay stance. There a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Old Route Direct
BETA PHOTO: Start of Old Route Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Lost Arrow Piton, probably from sometime in th...
Old Lost Arrow Piton, probably from sometime in th...

Comments on Old Route Direct Add Comment
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By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Aug 4, 2016

From Barker: "The original line I believe starts at the same point. You climb up the slab to the overlap. Now climb way left to a small right facing flake. Clip the old ring pin and commit to some very run our slabbing. Trending right. The next gear with be in some not so good quality flakes. Pull an overlap and trend right building a natural anchor under an overlap! Its a fun line to climb but the wondering nature of the line creates horrible rope drag. FA Hank Childs?"