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Old Punks on Crack 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown (Juan Lopez or Bob Moor?), 1st Recorded Ascent: Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler, and Karl Kiser
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Matt Price on Oct 20, 2007

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Rachael giving the thumbs-up after a successful as...


This superb route follows the splitter crack in the middle of the Right Broken Arrow face. The climb starts in a dihedral (a convenient bolt keeps this part from being too runout), and transition into the splitter crack after pulling through a small overhang section. The combination of dihedral, crack, and face moves makes for a great climb on solid rock.


Cross the river and start in the right facing dihedral on the right side of the crag. Located to the left of Hostile Takeover.


Stadard rack up to 3", longer slings to reduce rope drag during the bottom moves. Shares anchor with Hostile Takeover.

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By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008

Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and I placed the anchor on this route but there had been a previous FA.
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
May 16, 2012

Hmmm... Maybe I am spoiled when it comes to crack climbing, but there was absolutely nothing splitter about this thing. I def agree with the start being the most enjoyable part of the route. If you are uncomfortable with the high bolt, you could get a bomber med size nut in a few feet below the bolt. Crack takes pretty decent pro, but is by no means "splitter." I wouldnt recommend it too highly... unless, like me you are desperate to climb a crack at Gilman. Great way to set up a TR on Hostile Takeover!
By Wes Martin
From: Denver, Colorado
Dec 4, 2016

decent route, pretty chossy, at the crux pulling into the crack there is lots of loose rocks, be especially careful here

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