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C. Middle and West Walls
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Old Pirates 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chuck Fitch and Adam Huxley, spring 2013
Page Views: 1,725
Submitted By: Josh on Mar 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: West Wall topo photo.

Description 

Balancy moves into a tension-y stance lead to a hand jam and a strenuous pull over the lip (crux) and then a thin and interesting face above that stays challenging. This is good stuff.

Location 

This is on the left side of the West Wall, where the overhang angles up and left. Locate the first bolt in the swirly-patterned rock below the overhang. The middle of the 3 bolted lines on the West Wall.

Protection 

7 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Old Pirates Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to pull the overhang.
Getting ready to pull the overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the second bolt.
Clipping the second bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Kelble (age 10) pulls the lip.
Katie Kelble (age 10) pulls the lip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Kelble gets the beta from first ascentionist...
Katie Kelble gets the beta from first ascentionist...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck, 7/13/2013.
Chuck, 7/13/2013.

Comments on Old Pirates Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 13, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux is around the first bolt. It is not that hard to pull over the overhang. There is a big "jug" hold reachable above the overhang.
By A. Bandos
Aug 20, 2015

Although not necessary, it might be nice to bring some small gear to plug in after the final bolt.

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