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Old Pin Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 12, 2012

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This climb was an interesting find as it showed evidence that this rock has likely been ascended since the 1960s. The vintage hardware is clearly older than most fixed gear in the area. Note, it isn't entirely clear how P1 went, but P2's hardware shows the line. We found this pitch after lowering to clean a stuck cam and spying pins in the crack.

P1a. You can wander up slabs and small overlaps on lightly protectable terrain to the left.

P1b. You can climb over the bulge of Right Side and belay on a ledge, 8+, 100'.

P2. Move left into a crack passing at least 4 ancient, soft iron pitons on fairly licheny terrain. There are a few nice crystals along this stretch. Move delicately on face holds angling rightward to reach a flake below a bush. There were half-eaten slings here, probably evidence of rodent habitation. 9, 110'.

P3. Move up delicately standing on some blocks passing a bush into a wide crack. The difficulty is brief here. Continue up and right to belay at a comfortable spot on the right near a wide-fingers, horizontal crack. 8, 100'.

To exit, scamper up to the top, traverse leftward and down. Find a large boulder under which there is a beige sling and remnants of a cut red sling. Please check the sling in its entirety before rappelling, since rodents chew on some slings here. Rappel 40'. Walk down to the right.

This route really needs a brush, as it feels like it's been a long time since it was climbed (and cleaned).


This is on the right side of the crag. P2 skirts the vertical section with a fixed yellow/green Alien. P3 aims for a widish crack with a bush at its start.


Gear to a #4 Camalot, 4+ old pins (one pulled with finger strength), long slings.

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