Old New Place Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the rou...
The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.
Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004)
that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.
From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.
Weather station 4.8 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Old New Place
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old New Place
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old New Place:
Route 17 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Bee Sting 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Route 10 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Berserker 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Old New Place
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c New Mexico
: Los Alamos & White Rock
: ... : Old New Place
Rattlesnake Crack is one of the very best White Rock cracks, rated from 11a to 11c in different sources.The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but good solid gear can be found before committing to it. Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and crank through the insecure crux to a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and liebac...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
Marino Gonzales free soloing next to a perfectly ...
By Ed Santiago
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 1, 2013
Found: reading glasses near base of Bee Sting. PM to claim them.