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Old New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Old New Place Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Location: 35.81856, -106.18779 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,328
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the rou...


The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.
Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.

Getting There 

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Old New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old New Place:
Route 17   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bee Sting   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
High Roof Left   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Route 10   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
High Roof Right   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
God Route (aka Mike's Route)   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Berserker   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sinewave (aka S Crack)   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old New Place

Featured Route For Old New Place
Rock Climbing Photo: Fiddling gear into the thin start of the upper cra...

Sinewave (aka S Crack) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Old New Place
Sinewave: One of the most intriguing routes to be found at the Old New Place or in White Rock, for that matter. A challenging and sequency boulder problem off the deck, begin climbing the sinusoidal crack, which will test your skills and strength as you work to keep from barndooring off. The crack is more of a seam for the first 15 feet, although there are places where small RPs would provide protection; bold leaders solid at the grade will love this route. After the initial c...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Old New Place Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the wall before we went to the base.
Looking up at the wall before we went to the base.
Rock Climbing Photo:  Marino Gonzales free soloing next to a perfectly ...
Marino Gonzales free soloing next to a perfectly ...

Comments on Old New Place Add Comment
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By Ed Santiago
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 1, 2013
Found: reading glasses near base of Bee Sting. PM to claim them.

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