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Old Milwaukee Road 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 98'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Later Spring/Early Fall
Page Views: 2,969
Submitted By: Rod Assis on Sep 9, 2013

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Crux is the block right above the next visible unc...


This route has been incorrectly called Wild Goat, fyi. Old Milwaukee Road is what the FA called it.
From the east end of the concrete bridge climbs up and slightly right on easy terrain. Reach left to clip a bolt at head height then do a airy maneuver to the left to gain positive holds. Straight up from there leads to a left trending somewhat chossy corner/chimney with three very closely space bolts. I was able to rap it with a 70M .

Awesome, well-protected first 10a route for all ages. The crux is right at the big block, but a big jug awaits to get you out.


just left of Jiffy Pop (5.7). You can find Jiff pop on Garth Bruce's book (which is in need for an update).


About 14 quickdraws are necessary, 12 (13?) for the route and 2 for the anchors.

Fixed anchors at the top.

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By rustin
From: Issaquah WA
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The name of this route is "Old Milwaukee Road." Named after the historic railroad that used to go through here. I bolted this route and several others in the neighborhood in the summer of 2010.
By davidbarton
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nothing about this felt like a 5.10 to me. That said, the climbing was very fun. Hard to beat the consistency and height on this one when compared to other deception climbs. As with other routes on this wall, watch for loose rock!
By Pawel
From: WA
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

14 draws if you don't skip any clips. Watch for loose rock. 60m will get you down.
By cashmab
Jun 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Fun line, but as a professional geologist I was a bit sketched by some of the rock quality (large blocks that could become dislodged under the right circumstances) and placement of bolts on some of these questionable blocks.

Climb this route carefully and at your own risk, and I'd recommend belaying from the other side of the fence to provide at least something of a barrier in the event that any large chunks decide to come down -- and wear a helmet!

Except for one challenging crux move near the top (5.9?), the majority of this route feels like 5.7ish. Very fun line in any case.

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