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Old Man's Myth 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??? on the original FA-(old school aid line)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 16, 2013

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On the lower half.

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After some cleaning and excavating of the crack, I led this line with all natural gear in September '13. We had found an old piton that came out quite easily. It seems obvious some "Old Man" had been up there training for the bigger walls of Eldo, The Black, and beyond.... They may have climbed up to the right where the crack system splits into a Y (looks like fun free climbing too). There is a large "boot-shaped flake" to the left of the crack that is hollow and gonging when tested. It seems to be solidly connected at its top, but avoiding it is advised (hoping to extract this unwanted feature...). There is solid gear to the right and can be avoided.... A splitter finger crack leads up through some exciting finishing moves to share the same 2-bolt anchor with Toy Box.


Nuts and cams to 2" protect this classic CCC spitter.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top.
Near the top.

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree with the 5.9 rating on this one, but the moves are not obvious at the steepest section, and it does look harder than a 9. I think it is 5.9 for several moves and not just a single one.
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2014

...yeah, when I led it, I was missing that big key hold to the left of the crack. Felt like 5.10, almost fell... use all that is available to you to make it 5.9.
By Stagg54 Taggart
Sep 21, 2014

Old school 5.9 for sure!
By D. Snyder
From: Golden, CO
Oct 1, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun little route. Really good gear, but I wouldn't put any of it behind - or even use - the boot flake.

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