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South Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Co-op T 
Cloud Nine S 
Cornholer's Incest S 
Coroner's Inquest T,TR 
Lion's Line S 
Male Menopause T 
Montse, Donde Esta,'91 S 
Old Man T 
Rooting for the Lions S 
Tongue Lashing T,TR 
Turkey Trot S 

Old Man 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Baker, Fig Fiola
Page Views: 6,523
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Feb 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (89)
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Highlining the old man gap! Me sending the line, p...


This route ascends the huge, prominent left-facing corner near the south end of South Fin.

Start up the clean dihedral on thin fingers until you can get a stance for pro. Continue up through broken blocks, staying generally in the corner, until you come right under the large roof near the top.

While there are a couple of finishes, the most common is to move right under roof and up around corner. Continue up 15 feet to anchors.

While easily protected, this route is long and quite sustained, save for a couple good rests. It is also extremely fun! Some of the best crack moves around.

To descend, move back about ten feet to chains for Male Menopause, and rap down west face of South Fin back to start.


Standard Rack, Chain Anchors

Photos of Old Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the upper part.
Getting into the upper part.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the corner.
Finishing up the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the clean corner.
Working the clean corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Sizes Up the Old Man
BETA PHOTO: Alex Sizes Up the Old Man
Rock Climbing Photo: Path of the line we chose
Path of the line we chose
Rock Climbing Photo: midway up on TR
midway up on TR

Comments on Old Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2017
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

great climb.. the crux is really the first 15-20' but I have seen some people get sketched out stepping out onto the face from the roof. Pay attention to your runners and make sure you long sling under the roof!
By Daniel Cohn
Nov 26, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Use the chains on the left side at the top of the route. I didn't see them and used another set of chains 15 feet to the right, but there was too much drag.
By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Jan 23, 2008

Did this route on 1-19-08; great climb, for me the crux was stepping out from under the lower roof into the crack, as well as a few tricky face moved down low. Overall though i thought it took very good pro and followed a great line; very fun long climb. One of the best 5.9's I've climbed for sure.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

best freakin 9 i've ever done.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 4, 2010

the exposure after you pull the roof will put a smile on any climber's face.

the views of hawkbill spire from the belay are great.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Move(s) right off the deck felt like awkward, balancy 10- at least. Can be protected w a microcam.

Rest of the route is 5.9 although you can make it harder if you don't find the right stems.
By Tradiban
Dec 11, 2012

Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Straight up, slightly right at the first bulge and turning the high roof to the right up high makes for a great line. The crux is the first move - tiny piece of brass protects it well. As stated above, there are now two chains and you can rap straight down to your packs.
By Andrew Megas-Russell
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 25, 2014

Andy Bennett, very nice touch on the anchor! Thanks for doing this. Seems like a very appropriate location for the anchor! Nice work.

There was some noticeable wear on the rings today. People, please don't top-rope straight off of the rings; use a couple quick draws if you are yo-yo toproping.

Other classic routes on mt. lemmon deserve anchor updating attention like this!! Especially Chimney Rock.

Can we revive the anchor at the top of vistacruiser now?? I'll help with labor if the ASCA supplies the bolts.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 24, 2015

No Andrew, I don't think the ASCA will ever supply gear for anchor updates that don't involve truly suspect bolts. And using them here just because I was impatient and didn't have any others at the time was my Bush-league error. I've since made up for that by buying more identical gear, which I will use on future replacements. Will have to take a look at those anchors on Vistacruiser soon, what seemed suspect to you about them?
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Mar 2, 2016

A truly classic line. You'd have to wait in line for this thing if it were in J Tree.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Indeed at jtree this would get a ton of attention. Bring lots of long runners Couple gear thoughts: Sweet yellow totem/.4 slotted in plate out left protects final moves. blue totem/.3 is perfect at the very edge of roof, up high not under
By Randy A
Apr 27, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It is a 5.9 only if you ignore the start ... that's a 5.10a

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