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Old Man Spire

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Prize, The S 

Old Man Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,956'
Location: 43.29586, -122.53892 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,354
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: hotlum on Apr 3, 2016
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Description 

The impressive spire above the North Umpqua River about 50 miles up river from Roseburg. This area has a long climbing history that goes back to 1963 when Mike Dilley, Mark McLaughlin, Brian Gannon, Janet Niece, and Gary Kirk made the first ascent via 2 pitch Dilley's Delight (5.8). The first Tyrolean Traverse was made between The Old Woman and Old Man Spire in 1980 by Doug Smith.

Getting There 

Access via the North Umpqua Trail from where the highway crosses the river at milepost 50 or from the Soda Springs trailhead.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Old Man Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old Man Spire:
The Prize   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 260'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old Man Spire

Featured Route For Old Man Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Third Pitch of "The Prize"

The Prize 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Oregon : Southwest Oregon : Old Man Spire
This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Comments on Old Man Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By K. Robinson
From: Corvallis, OR
Oct 9, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
Currently the area is still closed due to fire activity, tickets for entering the area are steep. If caught attempting to climb Old Man, Old Woman, or Eagle Rock I imagine this could impact future access for climbers.

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