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Old Man and the Sea (ka) S 
Old Man and The Sea(ka) (1st Pitch) S 
Old Man Direct S 
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Technician, The S 
Titanaboa S 
WTF S 

Old Man Direct 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ed Strang
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, winter, fall
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Ed Strang on May 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Natalie moves past the crux and into the finish o...

Description 

Climb the white face straight into Old Man and the Seaka 1st pitch. The crux is where the two climbs merge. Climbs better than the original line IMO.

Location 

Starts to the right of Gluefa.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Old Man Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken makes the BIG reach up high on Old Man Direct ...
Ken makes the BIG reach up high on Old Man Direct ...

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By Rich Strang
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 15, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Totally rad route! Probably the best 5.12 (along with New Beginning) in the Bat Cave area. Really cool fossilized pinches and edges. The holds keep getting smaller as the route gets steeper then you get the awesome pumpy tufa finish to Old Man and the Sea(ka) 1st pitch. It doesn't get much better! Start slightly right of the bolt line which is about 5 feet right of GlueFa(Bella Donna) -
2 black hangers need draws at the start, then follow 9 chain draws and finish on the 2 bolt mid anchor/lowering biner for Old Man first pitch.

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