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Old Light Cliff

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Albacore T 

Old Light Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.16732, -4.67669 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 25, 2013
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The Old Light, from which this cliff takes its nam...

Description 

A long, slabby cliff with some fine crack climbs on the right hand side. The left side has been taken over by lichen (the long sea-grass variety) and the routes there will need a good clean before being reclimbed. The top-out of the routes hereabouts is very loose and can be pretty dangerous. The usual advice is to position your abseil so as to be able to use it to protect the last 20m or so.

Getting There 

From the old light follow the wall on its North side down the bracken slope. Continue after the wall stops, with a steep, loose gully on your left until you reach good boulders near the cliff edge. A 70m abseil from here will get you to the bottom of the cliff and the start of the routes.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 12.9 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Old Light Cliff

Albacore 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Old Light Cliff
An excellent first pitch, unfortunately marred by the loose top. This route is the central crack of the slab, about 10m left of the arete. Start on the enormous boulder at the bottom of the cliff.P1. Step across the void between the boulder and the cliff to get established on the slab. Move immediately left to a broken depression then up to a line of good holds leading rightwards. Follow these to the main crack system. The first 20m or so up the cracks is pretty straightforward, excellent gear, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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