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The Bear
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Old Ghost 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rances Rodriguez
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: Caliza on Jul 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

The hardest line in the Vineyard. Essentially a 25 ft V7. Shares the first 2 bolts with Brazin then bears left climbing into the two perma-draws. fVery powerful and sequential crux on small holds guard the anchors. Possibly 5.12c if you use the knee to mitigate the crux, first ascensionist did not use knee bar. Best in afternoon shade.

Location 

On the right overhanging wall in the Vineyard. From the Bear walk 15 to 20 feet left of the 5.10 warm ups to the 3rd class scramble opposite the downhill trail before the knoll. The anchors of Brazin can be seen shining between the trees up above the scramble from below.

Protection 

4 bolts in total, last 2 are perma-draws, to mussy hook (left anchors on steep wall).


Comments on Old Ghost Add Comment
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By Caliza
Nov 14, 2015

The second ascent, Vlad, ended up using a feature out left as a knee-bar, which I didn't use, making getting through the crux easier. He feels that with the knee-bar out left it's 12c, and if you don't use it, it's harder.
By Vlad S
Nov 15, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

To be clear the left knee bar is right in the middle where you'd clip the 3rd bolt (first permadraw). It splits the route nicely into a 5 move V5 and a 4 move V5/6 and allows you to switch hands and shake out. Cool route! Bring a magnifying glass!
By Caliza
Nov 24, 2015

I definitely will have to, I did not use a knee bar anywhere. Nice job.

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