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Old Dragon Buttress

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Frees Thou T 

Old Dragon Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 27.04123, 99.69002 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 80
Administrators: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 11, 2016
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Description 

This area contains several excellent single-pitch climbs with two second-pitch extensions. There are many other obvious lines that either have not been FA'd or FFA'd, with some others that need some digging and/or bolts. The rock here is featured and textured enough to create the possibility of mixed or even pure sport climbs. That is, if you have the bolts and the willingness to do the slog. As it is now, it's not really worth the walk unless you've got a #6 to get you to the top.

There is an obvious trail the contours around the blank south face and up the east side of the cliff. This is an easy Class 2 walk-up to the top which provides a commanding view of the surrounding geography. From here, you can scramble down towards the top-outs, but this becomes increasingly steep and exposed, so be prepared for this if you're exploring for more goodness.

Getting There 

See main "One Dragon Area" page

Climbing Season

For the Lijiang Area area.

Weather station 54.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Old Dragon Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: P1

Frees Thou 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Asia : East Asia : ... : Old Dragon Buttress
Start up wide crack using lots of face features. Shrinks to good hands then fingers. You can stem out whenever. Beware of looseness in the left crack and a big chunk in the middle, which you can climb around using face holds on the right. More hands to awkward mantel and tiny gear (if any). Continue up easier rock with slight run-out. Step left to anchor.Please comment on this route if you do the second pitch and I will update the description accordingly. It looks like some fun chimneying!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Old Dragon Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Battle of the Bulge" (5.11) no FFA
"Battle of the Bulge" (5.11) no FFA
Rock Climbing Photo: "Artificial Red" P1 (5.10+)
"Artificial Red" P1 (5.10+)

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