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Old Dragon Ballz T 

Old Dragon Ballz 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Maurer
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: J1. on Jul 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Kevin on P2 above the crux.

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  • Description 

    Climb the flared crack through 2 strenuous bulges. Fingers to tight hands...it is trickier than it looks.

    Location 

    This route is located near the Crack Land area just across the gully and faces Southwest. Once at upper Crack Land, locate the routes, Thus Us or The Enemy Within, do an about face and walk about 50 feet to the north and look up. The route is perched on a nice granite slab overlook with great views of Boulder Canyon and upper Crack Land.

    Protection 

    Small rack up to a #1 Camalot.

    Walk off to the east or set a gear anchor for toproping.


    Photos of Old Dragon Ballz Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Giving that crack some Maurer-power!
    Giving that crack some Maurer-power!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin on P1 caught in action with funky lighting.
    Kevin on P1 caught in action with funky lighting.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crack to the left of my rope.
    BETA PHOTO: The crack to the left of my rope.

    Comments on Old Dragon Ballz Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Cor
    Jul 31, 2010
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Nice work, Jason!
    Despite being a short route, don't be fooled.
    It is like a little Vedauwoo simulator, with fun climbing.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Oct 4, 2010

    Not knowing what the route was and missing the entry in Crack Land, we did a tiny approach pitch for this 2 pitch line. Most will consider skipping the 1st pitch. The first pitch is lichenous and has a discontinuous nature, but its upper half has a nice smidgen of crack. Perhaps it is 5.7.
    By Jason Haas
    Jul 7, 2017

    I would disagree with Leo that there are two pitches to this route. Yes, there is rock below the starting ledge, but I tried my best to find something harder than Class 4 to get up to the big ledge below where the meat of the route starts. Easy scramble in approach shoes and a pack on. Overall, the route is only 25 feet long (not 65) but fun!

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