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Old Boys Club S 
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Old Boys Club 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brad White
Page Views: 462
Submitted By: BALDY on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

It's hard to believe that the dramatic overhang at the top of this route goes at 5.10c...but it does (you will have to work for it though).
There are two ways to do this. You can start to the left (and avoid the 5.11a roof), which is the route "Old Boys" and goes at .10c. OR you can do the "Old Boys Club" direct start (a one or two move 11a), which I feel is a cleaner line with better rock and moves. To do it, make some moderate moves up to the roof (a good hold), and the first bolt. One or two .11a moves gets you past another bolt and onto 5.8ish climbing....but it ain't over. climbing past a few spaced bolts up to the spectacular roof. Pull through the roof on buckets and horizontals (.10c) and grunt onto the top of the cliff. Take a deep breadth and a look at your scraped up forearms...wasn't that fun!!

Location 

From the Highlander Wall Main Area, follow the trail to the right skirting the base of the cliff. Squeeze between a bolder and the cliff and you will find the next obvious wall with a few bolted lines on it. Start at the lowest point of land at the base of the cliff, under the overlap with two bolts on it.

Protection 

draws...a good number of them.


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By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Aug 3, 2015

The start of this route is great, the 10 it finishes on not so much.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 13, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The only thing keeping this route from getting 4 stars in the less than exciting climbing between the two cruxes. The .11a intro is classic and the overhang at the top is tons of fun but the middle is so-so, regardless this is a must climb.

Also, I left two biners on the last two bolts in the roof, so after you pull the mantle you can reverse it, clip the two biners and lower off, instead of having to hard thread through 3 rap rings on a single bolt.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Sep 3, 2017

As of September 1st, 2017, there is still a biner on each of the last two bolts. Thank you for that, Matthew, it makes getting off (after pulling the overhang and downclimbing) a whole lot easier.

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