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Old Bolt Route 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun top rope except that you need two ropes. This thing's always in the sun and has a cave up high with nesting raptors. So no climbing form Feb 1st through June 30th. You follow an ancient bolt ladder up a steep section of wall. Fun moves and really long and sustained. The crux comes when exiting the cave near the top. Don't trust the bolts for leading though they still seem to be good for aiding. If you aid it, bring a stick clip. There's a few missing bolts. Scramble around the back side of the rock to reach the anchors. Usually done after toping out on the Cave Route.

Location 

On the far right steep South facing side of the Rock of Ages. The approach takes 45min from the car, but 6 good routes are in the immediate area.

Protection 

Top rope.


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By clustiere
Aug 24, 2012

Every third bolt or so looks to be new. Has anybody led this? I'm thinking about it.
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 3, 2013

Just lead this thing today. One of the scariest routes I've ever lead. I kept thinking what dumbass bolted this thing like this and it hit me about 3/4 of the way up. Somebody just replaced some of the "aid ladder" bolts to make the "aid" safer. There are about 8 bolts in 155 ft of climbing so almost every clip you're looking at a 40 ft whipper. If you blow the third clip you'll deck from about 35 ft.

DO NOT LEAD THIS ROUTE IN IT'S CURRENT CONDITION

I'm thinking about moving some of the bolts and adding several to make this a quality sport route. Fukk the aid ladder thing, why would anyone want to bother aiding that? Who knows when I'll actually do it though.
By ericjm21
From: Walnut Creek
Jul 3, 2014

Is this route still not safe to lead climb or has someone replaced the old bolts?
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 6, 2014

Not safe, don't do it. It's 5.11c X.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 8, 2016

Would love to see this thing updated to a modern route.
By Bruno Beltran
From: Stanford, CA
2 days ago
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Easily top roped with a single 70.

In fact, what we found out today after lugging two ropes up there is that if you extend your TR far enough to not contribute to the rock grooves (30' cordalette, single stranded one loop to each bolt) a 60m *barely* reaches. We unknotted the ropes and belayed with the single 60m.

Fun route! Led it in January in a fit of stupidity. I would also not recommend it. The choss level is high enough that half of the difficulty is not pulling loose shit high above your last good bolt.

I would also put my vote down for making this route more modern. Maybe with a couple of more judiciously placed bolts, as mentioned in the comments above, this might clean up to be a good line. Unfortunately my drill is on the other coast. If you rebolt this, make sure to not bolt straight up through the choss!

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