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The Bear
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Beast, The T 
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Just Bearly T 
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Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Old Ghost S 
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Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 

Old And In The Way 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 532
Submitted By: caughtinside on May 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Old and In the Way... where to start? Might as well be at the first bolt. The first bolt is tricky and delicate to clip, that big chalked up rail is sadly not as good as it looks. Holding on with one hand with grim feet is a challenge.

But the action starts right after you make the clip! Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.

I'll come clean. I led this climb, but it wasn't clean. I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw. The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c. The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.

Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.


Right of the chimney in the center of the crag, first route right of Black Hole Sun. Left of Bear's Choice.


5 bolts

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By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
May 14, 2008

It's not THAT hard. One Crimp and its over. 5.11b.

The climb is the second route RIGHT of the chimney, between Black Hole Sun and Bear's Choice, in other words: RIGHT of BHS and LEFT of Bear's Choice.

By steple
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux is only two moves short. The crimps are small but sharp. Soft 5.11 I say. The rest of the route is much easier - but very enjoyable! I found no chalk marks and a loose hold.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Dec 28, 2012

I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.
By Caliza
Jun 11, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Probably the only bad route at the Bear, but I hear the stuff to the far, far right isn't that good either. 5.11a or soft 5.11b.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 29, 2016

This crag breeds rating squabbles like a hydra sprouts heads, and I'm afraid I'll add my 0.02 to the boredom. The start feels like 5.11+ to this fat boy. Far harder movement than anything encountered on Beast of Burden. Of course, if you're a crimp happy featherweight, I could see how it feels trivial. Yes, I can think of some 5.11- climbs with moves as hard, but we generally agree to call those sandbags.
By Samuel Trimboli
Dec 21, 2016

I really enjoy this route. The start gets you going and then it lightens up a bit. The position of the route is enjoyable and transferring from the ledge, around the arete to the gently overhanging face is quite cool. Give it a go!

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