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El Dorado
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Black Gold S 
Brown Smoothies TR 
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 
Kindergeist T,TR 
Nuggets S 
Olas Negras S 
Poltergeist TR 
Snooze T 

Olas Negras 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ryan Bello, March 1993.
Season: Any!
Page Views: 848
Submitted By: John Knight on Sep 14, 2010  with updates from Aaron Formella

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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John Hickey feeling the crux on Olas Negras. Photo...

Description 

"Olas Negras" translates to "Black Waves" in English. When you stand at the base of this overhanging climb you'll understand the name. This bolted climb traverses right and is overhanging the entire way.

Location 

This route starts 30' or so to the right of the base of "Black Gold". Due to the traversing nature of the climb it's nearly impossible to Top Rope.

Protection 

Bring 9 draws (maybe an extra if you drop one). The anchors for this route have been replaced with Fixe Triplex bolts.

Be sure to continue up and right to the correct anchor and not the "Brown Smoothies" anchor.

NOTE - All bolts were replaced summer 2015.


Photos of Olas Negras Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The new anchor on Olas Negras. Thanks John Knight.
The new anchor on Olas Negras. Thanks John Knight.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Hickey negotiating the crux of Olas Negras. P...
John Hickey negotiating the crux of Olas Negras. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: John Hickey stretching through the crux on Olas Ne...
John Hickey stretching through the crux on Olas Ne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Formella mid-crux on Olas Negras. Aaron Stir...
Aaron Formella mid-crux on Olas Negras. Aaron Stir...
Rock Climbing Photo: (Pre-replacement) Typical lead bolt on "Olas ...
BETA PHOTO: (Pre-replacement) Typical lead bolt on "Olas ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor for "Olas Negras" used to con...
BETA PHOTO: The anchor for "Olas Negras" used to con...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Olas Negras" 5.12a and "Brown Smoo...
BETA PHOTO: "Olas Negras" 5.12a and "Brown Smoo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Olas Negras anchors are separate and right of the ...
Olas Negras anchors are separate and right of the ...

Comments on Olas Negras Add Comment
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By John Knight
Sep 14, 2010

This could be a really cool sport climb if the bolts were replaced. Over the years, I've had several people contact me re: replacing the anchor & lead bolts on "Olas Negras" and the anchor bolts on "Brown Smoothies". If you're interested in helping replace these bolts, please let me know. I think it would be a really great sport route and ALSO a really cool aid route.

John
By ryan bello
Dec 1, 2013

You have my "blessing" to replace the bolts. Just try not to add or subtract too many...heehee. Happy climbing guys. Oh yeah...don't forget to enjoy the view.
By John Knight
Mar 30, 2015

Hey Ryan,

Just saw this comment! I have been off Mt. Project since my back surgery aboust 2 years ago. Would love to get you out there - for history - if you have a chance. Are you still local? This has been on my "to do list" for bolt replacement for about 10 years. There is a horrible mix of rusty junk on this climb. Some have been removed (not by me) or fallen out! You may be the last one to lead this climb!

Let me know if you can join us when we do the replacement.

Cheers,

John
By ryan bello
Sep 18, 2015

All bolts and anchors replaced on Olas Negras. Beefy and ready to have people send one after another. Thanks John Knight and Aaron Formella for the hard work replacing the hardware! Brown Smoothies is a lead climb now as well. 2 fun overhung climbs with one of the best views around.
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Apr 19, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

2nd (known) ascent: Joe Maier, mid May (18th?) 2015, onsight
3rd (known) ascent: Adam Despo, summer 2015

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