Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Duane Raleigh, Rick Thomas, Bill Thomas 1980
Page Views: 7,195 total · 34/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


75 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Want to test your friction skills? This is the route! Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through. The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above. The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options. I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet. Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome. Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!

Location Suggest change

The face just right of Crazy Alice.

Protection Suggest change

2 Bolts and some small cams down low. Chain Anchor. Hardware replaced Feb 2020.

If you blow the first bolt, a standard belay will let you deck. A dynamic belay can lessen the impact, if not avoid it, so bring a compentent partner. Hopping off the belay ledge as the fall occours seems to be the most effective technique. Get good spotters, and a crash pad never hurt anyone. Except that girl who broke her ankle tripping over one....

Southern Rock Suggest change

"Bring a cool head on this one."

Rating History Suggest change

Raleigh and Thomas rated this 5.10x using old school ratings. Back when there was only one bolt to protect the crux. Then Chuck's guide placed it at 5.10a RX. Finally Tony advanced the rating up to 5.10dX.

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