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Roof Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Herndon
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Roof Crack

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good introduction to roof climbing. Turning the roof is the crux.

Location 

Roof crack in a huge boulder.

Protection 

Gear to #3, no anchor.


Photos of Roof Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There are no anchors at the top of roof crack, but...
There are no anchors at the top of roof crack, but...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route goes through the crack in the large boul...
BETA PHOTO: The route goes through the crack in the large boul...

Comments on Roof Crack Add Comment
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By jcomp
From: OKC, OK
Jun 10, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is an excellent route. Challenging and exciting. The crux is continually hard. The start has some questionable rock with stiff moves to open but the top is a beautiful hand crack problem. There are various ways to pull the crux just don't forget to use your feet! The jams are solid and the gear placements plentiful.
By Mark Herndon
Feb 6, 2010

I soloed the FA's of this one and Roof Corner to the right in about twenty minutes. Jon Frank was there and gave them lame names. Never thought anyone would even do these things back then. I rated them both .10a. Had to climb up and down Roof Crack a couple of times to milk the handjams right. Way harder than Hobbit Roof in JTree, but almost identical.

I wanted to name them Crack of Noon (roof) and Piece of Crack (corner). The corner one is kind of awkward and crappy. Piece of Crap would also be a good name.
By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I enjoyed this route. The fun parts are short, unfortunately.
By Joseph Aja
From: Flower Mound, Texas
May 9, 2017

There is now a pair of bolts with a rap ring about 10-15ft to the right of the top of the climb. I climbed roof crack, built an anchor, belayed up my second, and then he traversed over to the bolts while still on belay but that wasn't even totally necessary.

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