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Ojo (del Diablo) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Aaron Miller, 2004
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Very difficult down low with little to nothing for the feet and sidepulls for your hands. Then take a nap. Again on the upper wall more featured rock but few good holds in a corner gets you to the anchor.
I recomend Z-clipping at the anchor since the last bolt and the anchor are so close it is a pain to clip regularly and your waist is still below the last bolt anyway when you clip the anchor.
Rick Bradshaw's original description is here.

Rick Bradshaw wrote:
At least one individual has had his eye on this piece of rock for a while. A crucial hand hold popped off on an early ascent, turning the moves past the first bolt into a bit of a boulder problem, requiring an attentive belayer. A much needed no hands rest breaks up the sustained climbing on the lower and the upper sections.The best sport route of its grade at Diablo (well, it's the only sport route of its grade at Diablo, but it's really good).

Location 

Furthest right bolted line starting on a smooth cracked face.


Protection 

Bolts and bolted anchor


Comments on Ojo (del Diablo) Add Comment
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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 15, 2008

Most guides have this as 5.12a, but everyone I've talked too thinks it is quite a bit harder. It is essentially 2 boulder problems separated by a no hands rest and some easy climbing.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

the boulder problems, though, are each 3 to 4 bolts long, so there is some pretty good quality sustained climbing to be had. The route is 90 to 95 feet, so dont try it with a 50m rope.

We put this route up in '04 too.

-Aaron Miller
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Wow, this thing feels really hard for 12a, feels like a 12b start to the rest to an 11d/12a finishing head wall. Lee's beta is spot on about z clipping the anchors.
By Grindrite
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Two really fun 30 foot climbs separated by 20 feet of 5.7. Tricky right from the start through the scoop to some easy terrain. Fun technical climbing leads to the anchor. I think the last 2 bolts could be pulled and one placed between the two.

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