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Ojai Urinal  

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Sport, Boulder, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Nick LeProhon & Eric Benevente
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 1,222
Submitted By: Somedude on Aug 25, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt beta

Description 

Climb either side of mini arete to 1st bolt. Then reach and clip 2nd bolt for the turning of the roof and after standing 3rd bolt appears for clipping, a smidgen of slab action and cobbles with another 4th & 5th bolt along the way to the anchors!

The start of the climb next to the boulder-bathroom that people go behind to relieve their body waste, hince the name *Ojai Urinal*
°fun fact° also named that thanks to bob banks, who said "i only stop at wheelers gorge to take a piss"

Location 

Far left climb on cobble wall now more left than B free zone

Protection 

Need 5 quickdraws and 2 anchors which have beefy mussy hooks for an easy wrap down


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2017
By Jake CR
Aug 27, 2016

Really sad to see this. Eric Benevente (aka Somedude) is behind a number of BS maneuvers at Wheeler. He is the one who kept adding the bolt to the Economique start (how many times?), naming Bitch Free Zone, and now Ojai Urinal. I'm told it was him who placed the SUPER sketchy bolt in the cobble on Stolen From Mike. Great track record bro!

You're giving Stoney Point a bad name. Eric B, Mike L, Nick L...you guys should stay down south since you can't actually function respectfully in our beautiful area here. GTFO.
By Joe Garibay
From: Ventura, Ca
Aug 28, 2016

Is wheeler on the cusp of turning into a dump? I love this place and it is deserving of much better and more creative names for the routes. These truly show lack of imagination.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Aug 28, 2016

I defiantly have no love for Eric. I remember coming across him and his Stoney point crew last year. They were rolling about 10 deep, had topropes set up on every climb below 5.11 but no one was using them, had a boom box blasting music and every so often some asshat would yell out "Stoney Point!" across the canyon. L.A. antics that don't belong in Ojai. I had heard that he was the one who had been replacing the bolt on Economique so I had a chat with him that quickly turned into a heated disagreement which resulted in him going back to epoxy the bolt in place after I told him I was going to chop it. (I still chopped it and removed as much epoxy as I could). It's too bad that he's putting routes up with crummy names and crowding the space so much. I really wish he'd stay out of Ojai and put up shitty routes in his own backyard.
By Somedude
Aug 28, 2016

Thanks for all the motivation and support everybody, glad people are enjoying some new climbs. Remember to have fun out there kids!
By William Leventhal
From: Calabasas
Aug 31, 2016

Eric and Nick are good dudes! Why all the hate? Sounds like you two locals got your panties in a bunch over what?? Someone adding a route to your local crag?

You two need to get some thicker skin and harden the F... up.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 31, 2016

William, I am going to take issue with your math. At least nine different locals have weighed in here and in the comments for neighboring routes to protest the recent antics.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Aug 31, 2016

Hey William, Eric can be both "a good dude" AND violating local ethics and making stupid decisions at the same time. Life isn't linear buddy. Hope that isn't too complicated for you to grasp.
By Trevor Cox
From: Ojai, California
Sep 1, 2016

Not exactly stoked on the name, but I'm excited to hop on and give it a go! Thanks for the addition.
By William Leventhal
From: Calabasas
Sep 3, 2016

So what pray tell are the "local ethics"?

I'm all for solid Rawl Powers 5 piece bolts in soft rock but why all the controversy? What is so eggretious here other than a silly name for the route?
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 4, 2016

William, it seems that you have no idea what's going on over here so I don't really know why you feel the right to an opinion. Search around for info before you tell an entire community to "harden the f- up".
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 25, 2016

I need to start taking screen shots of classic comments before their authors (or the admins?) think twice and take them down.

"...step in a couple of squeezed piles before climbing a couple of squeezed piles..."

One of my all time favorites.
By Maxwell Miller
From: Ojai
Sep 30, 2016

I'm just gonna chime in for fun... Nice route, looks fun, thanks for doing the work, as well as your work on the other routes. As far as the names go on your routes, I among other climbers in the area would like to keep an ethic that is conducive to a family oriented community. I will bring my daughter climbing here and when she asks me the name of this and other routes, I don't want to tell her the trashy names that are posted here. You, Eric the first ascentionist have the power to change this, its ultimately up to you. I think you should consider rethinking the names for the sake of others, put something thats meaningful to you that has to do with your effort on your projects, or even something that has to do with the provocative energy that's surrounding your effort. Just a suggestion.
By Somedude
Dec 11, 2016

Thank you for actually climbing the route before weighing in, a serious appreciation and respect for that. Seems I noticed that someone who gave this a bomb has not been to Ojai in quite a while which is strange to me that their opinion has any value! But maybe I was raised not to be so quick to judge other people or the work they have done without first hand knowledge or experience.
By Stefan E
From: West Los Angeles, CA
Jul 5, 2017

Interesting beta. Bouldering with a rope. I enjoyed the route despite the naming controversy.
By Christian B
From: West Hills, California
Oct 1, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  V3 6A

This climb is sweet. The crux had me for a sec. Once you get that right hand and then fire for the next hold, it's like 3 more moves of pumpy fun. Giving it 11b for the shortness of the crux but, also its still pretty rough. Wanna come back and get a clean send. Btw the name makes total sense.

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