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Mount Moby Dick
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Ohno Wall T 
South Face Rib  T 

Ohno Wall 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 27 pitches, 1700', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3- [details]
FA: DaveJones, John Markel, Bob Wallace, 1972
Season: Dry
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 15, 2010

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MELVILLE GROUP 1961 Westfall Map contours 100 feet...

INTRODUCTION

This was one of the first grade VI climbs put up in the Colombia Mountains. Beckey-Mather on Snowpatch, Rowell-Jones-Quamar on North Howser (1971) and Roskelly-Copynzski? (1971)on Dag Peak in the Valhallas are the only grade sixes done before Ohno Wall. The first ascent party took 4 1/2 days, using 5 bolts.

APPROACH

Markel, from Boulder, CO, choppered into a base camp at the headwaters of Butters Creek. Wallace hiked in from the Duncan, presumably via the green hell of Butters Creek. Jones came in via a high route from Glacier Circle Hut. For those who are not chopper-cheats, Butter Creek is easier for getting to the base of the wall. The standard route on Moby Dick descends into the Houston Creek, so this valley might be more useful. But only if the light blue glacier route, marked on the map, is safe.

ROUTE

Located on the photo.

Wet slabs and poor rock slowed progress. Jones was hit and bruised by falling rock. The team scored a hit in a lightning storm. Markel told me, a couple of years later, that it was not his favorite route. Looks like room for more!


Photos of Ohno Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Dave Jones from CAJ, 1972
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Dave Jones from CAJ, 1972

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