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Ohmer's Odyssey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, 1980
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Dec 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Fun line, steep, sustained jamming. Nice treat af...

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  • Description 

    If this were located at the base of the Bastille, there'd be a line to get on it year-round. As it stands, it only sees a handful of ascents each year. Starting with a small roof, head up the handcrack splitting the middle of the wall. It's obvious, enjoyable, and uncrowded.

    If you're looking for steep thrills, adhere to the style of the first ascent and leave rope, gear, and your better judgment behind. No one will care, but no one will deny you the experience either.

    Protection 

    Standard rack to 3".


    Photos of Ohmer's Odyssey Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of the perfect crack.
    Nearing the top of the perfect crack.

    Comments on Ohmer's Odyssey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Jan 3, 2002

    Classic Jim Erickson 5.9. An old fashioned climb. The "small roof" is actually pretty burly, and dumps you straight into a short section of left-leaning offwidth. You may want to bring something larger than a #3 Friend. Above here the rest is real fun, like the nice pitch at the base of Rincon, but without the crowds. Definitely without the crowds.
    By Brian Milhaupt
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 16, 2002

    What a view! Watch for the loose jug out right about 8' up.
    By pete cogan
    Oct 27, 2003

    The loose block is still there . . . a 3.5 was helpful, as were doubles in hand sizes as well as some hexes . . . leave the stoppers at home.

    terrific route.
    By Jason Carter
    From: Monument, CO
    Jul 26, 2004
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    An excellent climb with superb pro to hone in your crack skills. The loose flake on the right is still loose. Just a side note - the walk off to the south takes about 2 minutes, probably safer/cleaner than strangling the old tree above Perry Meson.
    By shad O'Neel
    Apr 18, 2005

    The loose hold still wiggles. Great climb. Well worth it, if ever in the area. A #4 is nice to shove in while wondering if the jug is going to snap off......
    By rob rebel
    From: Denver, co
    Mar 8, 2006

    Worth the hike. A beautiful crack. #4 for the beginning. Don't trust the jug to the right in the beginning you don't need it.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Apr 9, 2006

    ...still wigglin'.
    By M. Morley
    Administrator
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Apr 4, 2007

    A 5.10 crux in the first 15' with 5.7-5.8 climbing after that.
    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Mar 14, 2016

    Really fun pitch.
    Build an anchor on the right just shy of the end with a few 1/2"-3/4" pieces and lower. (If you're going to walk this far, everyone in the party should get to lead it. Last guy gets a second lap.)

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