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Oh My! 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
Season: All
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: John Knight on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Susan on the Oh My! Arete.


This route has a series of physical and mental cruxes. The first crux comes after clipping the 1st bolt. Head straight up or cruise a bit left for an easier time. Place one or two cams under the big block. Be sure to place long runners on them to reduce rope drag. Make a big step up and right as you mantel onto the block (2nd crux). Step up and place a red alien (or Tricam)in the lower solution pocket about waist high on your right. You might get a gold alien in the upper pocket. Without the alien, the route would probably get an R rating. Reach up high and search for big rails. Move up and clip the 2nd bolt. Make a step up and wander left across easier ground toward an old, rusted leeper hanger. Clip this with a loooong runner then move right out to the arete. Reach high and right to clip the final bolt and follow the arete to the single bolt anchor. Supplement this with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4") or sling the block. For an interesting variation, instead of clipping the final bolt on the arete, go straight up after clipping the rusty leeper. You can place pro beneath the detached flake.

After leading this climb, go climb Spring Route (5.8R) or Dark Side of Moon (5.8). Both Spring Route & Dark Side offer various top rope options.


This route follows the arete on the detached pinnacle on the right side of P-Wall. Take the P-Wall trail to the base of P-Crack. Hang a right and cruise up to the pinnacle. As soon as you see the pinnacle, drop down to the right. You shouldn't have trouble finding the first bolt.


Mixture of bolts and cams. Four bolts (1 old leeper!) and 2 cam placements. You'll need a red alien or Tricam for the solution pocket. Bring long slings for the cams and old, rusted bolt. Single bolt anchor on top must be backed up with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4"). Rap rings are located on the back, up-hill side of the Pinnacle.

You can easily set this up as a top rope if you don't mind making a couple 5.5, unprotected moves up the back side of the pinnacle.

Photos of Oh My! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Updated photo of "Oh My!". Note there is...
BETA PHOTO: Updated photo of "Oh My!". Note there is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Theron Moses works his way up the Oh My! arete to ...
Theron Moses works his way up the Oh My! arete to ...

Comments on Oh My! Add Comment
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By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Nov 19, 2009

Looks like the first bolt is gone now! Don't know how it came out or was removed, but there is an obvious "patch" where the bolt was. It's not like there was a crack to protect next to the bolt. That bolt was on a blank face. More timid leaders, such as me, appreciate those bolts. I wish people would stop the chopping.
By Floyd Hayes
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Looking forward to a little adventure and unaware that the first bolt was missing, my partner and I were keenly disappointed to discover for ourselves that the bolt was missing. Not knowing whether the upper bolts were also chopped and not being in the mood to free solo, we packed up and left. We have a very low opinion of bolt choppers--to put it mildly.
By John Knight
Nov 12, 2010

Bolts have been replaced on this route. For this route, bring a small (1/2" to 3/4") cam to set up the anchor.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Sep 23, 2011

Except for the last 20 feet or so, this is crumbly rock. Not very aesthetic.
By Floyd Hayes
Dec 24, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Not very aesthetic, but adventurous with better quality climbing than I expected.

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