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Crimson Tide Wall
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Oh My Quad! 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Colin Dandridge
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Colin Dandridge on Nov 27, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: At the top.

Description 

This 35' route is above Crimson Tide Wall proper. It is along the same ridge line band that forms Lookout Mountain Crag, just further west. The best way to identify the route is by approaching back from CTW and identifying the angled crack on the left/east. Scramble through vegetation to the base. Start with the undercling, and move up left into a sideways jug. From there, rock into the crack, and use a mix of face and crack to top out. Getting off the ground and moving into the crack are the two cruxes of this short route.

Location 

Once across the guard rail, it is possible to walk directly to the top anchor crack and set up for a rappel. There is a faint deer trail leading to it, otherwise follow the main "trail" down towards Crimson Tide Wall, but cut to the east once you've dropped down past the first tier. You should be looking at wall now if you look back towards the road, keep walking east along wall until you see the dihedral crack. It is easier to scramble around further east and then head up the rocks. Still there is lots of vegetation at the base and also a cave to the right.

Protection 

I used cams up to #4 BD, but they are not required. There are plenty of nut placements as well as cam placments. Bring a standard rack with extra hand-plus size cams for the anchor.


Photos of Oh My Quad! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top of the climb. There is a bri...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the top of the climb. There is a bri...
Rock Climbing Photo: A close up shot of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: A close up shot of the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from near the top.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor block (the biner isn't being levere...
BETA PHOTO: The anchor block (the biner isn't being levere...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.

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