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6. The Tower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 
Arrowhead TR 
Back to the Gym TR 
Back to the Wall T 
Crefeld Crank TR 
Dead Tree Dihedral TR 
Ex-traction Slab TR 
In & Out T,TR 
Johnson Route T,TR 
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 
Manticore Face TR 
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 
No Rest for the Wicked TR 
Ogre Arete T,TR 
Rachel's Crack T,TR 
Red Knob, The T,TR 
Rock Romancer TR 
Rossinator, The TR 
Tower Wall Direct T 
Unrest of the Witches TR 

Ogre Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jon Crefeld & Kevin Johnson, October 6, 2009
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes overview Right side Tower Wall A - Rachel's...

Description 

Climb just to the left of the arete, mostly on the face. Then move right under the nose to finish. Moving right earlier brings it down a grade.

Location 

Locate the obvious arete to the right of Rachel's Crack and Johnson Route.

Protection 

Trees for a top-rope anchor. Extend the master point to reduce drag.


Photos of Ogre Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: closer look at the line placement
BETA PHOTO: closer look at the line placement
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnson Route, between Rachel's Crack (rope) and O...
BETA PHOTO: Johnson Route, between Rachel's Crack (rope) and O...
Rock Climbing Photo: top of ocre with a second TR line to the right on ...
top of ocre with a second TR line to the right on ...

Comments on Ogre Arete Add Comment
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By kenr
Jun 6, 2014

Seems like it's easier (and more fun?) for the Follower to start on the Arete. Then about twenty feet up there's a delicate step left onto the face. (like around 5.8)

To me starting on the face below to left of the arete felt like had lots of demanding thoughtful moves (around 5.9) -- but not necessarily the most fun kind.

Higher up I reached an obvious overhanging nose. Passing it on the right seemed more difficult and interesting (but encroaches onto the Dead Tree Dihedral route). Toward the left side is easier (but surely off the arete).
But also I was able go straight over that nose with one hand grabbing the arete -- and that might be the best way to sustain the level of difficulty.

Above that to sustain higher difficulty, I went a bit to left of (and did not use) the bush which can be grabbed to keep the Dead Tree Dihedral at difficulty not greater than 5.7. Then near the top I went to the left of another little bush (evergreen?)

Ken

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