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O'Grady
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O'Grady T 

O'Grady 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kitty Calhoun & Jay Smith - 1997
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 13, 2006

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

O'Grady is the stunning overhanging splitter up the short, stubby tower right of Lighthouse Tower. There's still a bit of loose rock on the approach pitch and the edges of the crack are sharp from lack of traffic, but this pitch is a classic that easily rivals Indian Creek's best.

P1: Begin by doing a short pitch up choss to the top of the pillar at the base of the wall. The easiest path is on the left side. Belay on the pillar from Metolius rap hangers. 5.8 or so.

P2: Step off the pillar and mantle onto a large wedged block. Climb up into a slot protected by a fixed wire and various small cams. Pull a difficult move to a good rest at a big flake-like feature. From here things are obvious: Overhanging #2 Friends for a long ways... A final mantle past a rotten block leads to easier climbing up to another set of rap hangers. 110', 5.12+.

Summiting the tower requires 4th class scrambling up loose rock. The crux pitch can easily be top-roped with a few directionals. One rap to the first anchor, and then a second short rap to the ground. Make sure you have a 70m rope -- a 60 will not reach. Also make sure to have a plan to get back to the belay ledge -- the first rap is free-hanging.

Protection 

1 green Alien or blue TCU, 2 ea. yellow Aliens or yellow TCU's, 3 ea. 0.5 Camalots, 5-6 ea. 0.75 Camalots, 7-8 ea. #1 Camalots (#2 Friends work better -- #1 Camalots are pretty tight), optional #2 Camalot for easy climbing at the top. No wires needed. A few slings. One 70m rope.


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By Ari Menitove
Nov 12, 2007

Wow! What a route! The crux pitch has great moves the whole way. Josh's description is right on the money.

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