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C. Middle and West Walls
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Back on Track T 
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Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 
Offwidth Corner T,TR 
Old Pirates S 
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 
Small Axe S 
Three Little Birds S 

Offwidth Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, Mike Endicott, LP
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: A good view of the route with a rope on it.

Description 

Thanks to Mike Moritz, Chuck Fitch, and Adam Huxley this climb has become much safer!

This is the inviting corner with an offwidth size through the easy part. It had an ominous flake capping its crux that belied belief that it remains unfallen. Thanks again to Mike, Chuck, and Adam it is now gone! This guillotine-like flake resisted some basic kicking, tugging, and pulling, but it seemed to be attached for now by a small lip at 5 o'clock and its left side. On the 1st go, it appeared unsafe to pull on, which resulted in attempts to skirt it to the left...unsuccessfully. A prybar pulled up allowed them to lever it off!

The flake's top did flex a bit.

On the first go, it was scaly, wet, and needed cleaning...which made skirting the flake feel 5.11. After cleaning on a dry day, Mike used the flake for one hold and thought it was 5.8, but that seemed too conservative to me.

Edit: I'll go try it again and rerate it when it gets warm enough to do so.

Location 

This is to the right of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back and left of Small Axe.

Protection 

A standard rack to a #4 Camalot (old size) plus a #5 (old size) Camalot and a #4 Bigbro (optional) were used.


Photos of Offwidth Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb gives it a try.
Deb gives it a try.

Comments on Offwidth Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael moritz
Nov 20, 2015

I cleaned the sketchy flake/chock with the help of Chuck and Adam and the JeffCo trail building team. It should be a fairly safe and enjoyable climb now.
By Brian Asbury
Jun 21, 2016

I thought it was notably easier than Belay Brothers.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 24, 2016

Yes, it changed much after the flake was cleaned off. Before, we climbed around the flake not wanting to knock it off and kill either of us. Plus, it was seeping a bit.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 22, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun climb and there really is no offwidth climbing on it. A rack to a #3 is sufficient although you can place larger gear. Going to the anchors on "Belay Brothers" is a good thing to do.

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