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Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
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Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Unknown (Possibly Mike Tupper based on the bolt hangers?) |
| Page Views: | 2,000 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Mar 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The creative name "Offset Corners" doesn't really do this climb justice. It is a fantastic pitch that is sustained and has two difficult, interesting, and exciting cruxes - one of which is the very last set of moves to a finishing jug.
Begin on the SW face of a large brown block (see Location description below) beneath the two left-facing corners. Climb easily up the first corner passing three bolts and gear placements to the corner's end. Move wildly up and right across the face towards the second corner (first crux) and mantle up to a stance in the corner itself. Continue upwards with good gear and two more bolts before making a difficult reach (second crux) at the top to a blind hold. Pull over onto a slabby topout.
There is currently no anchor on the top of this formation and finding good gear is difficult (but possible). Descend from the back by scrambling down a chimney and contouring around the west side of the block.
Begin on the SW face of a large brown block (see Location description below) beneath the two left-facing corners. Climb easily up the first corner passing three bolts and gear placements to the corner's end. Move wildly up and right across the face towards the second corner (first crux) and mantle up to a stance in the corner itself. Continue upwards with good gear and two more bolts before making a difficult reach (second crux) at the top to a blind hold. Pull over onto a slabby topout.
There is currently no anchor on the top of this formation and finding good gear is difficult (but possible). Descend from the back by scrambling down a chimney and contouring around the west side of the block.
Location
Follow the climbers' trail into Oak Creek Canyon passing underneath the Solar Slab area and eventually dropping down into the wash. Continue in the wash about 200-300 yards and look off to the right (north) side of the canyon: The climb is located on a huge brown block a few hundred feet above the canyon floor. It follows two left facing corners, one on top of the other, on the SW face of this block. Continue much further up canyon than you might think past the block until you reach the Black Orpheus approach. Scramble up the 4th class slab until level with the block and then easily contour back east to the climb.
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