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Offset cam smallest size, metolious or Alien?
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Mar 9, 2016
Somewhere in Zion my black/blue offset alien disappeared. Does anyone have a strong preference between the black/blue offset vs the metolious purple/blue? They look to be similar in size. Most likely use will be on El Cap in Yosemite and the walls of Zion. JeffL
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 14, 2012
85 points
Administrator
Mar 9, 2016
JeffL wrote:
Somewhere in Zion my black/blue offset alien disappeared. Does anyone have a strong preference between the black/blue offset vs the metolious purple/blue? They look to be similar in size. Most likely use will be on El Cap in Yosemite and the walls of Zion.

Aliens are nice but their quality control is about on par with something you might find at Chuck E. Cheese's. Master cams are nice, and I dont have any complaints other than the cam stops on the 0 and 00 models are barely strong enough to hold your hat. I use the Master Cams in offsets and Aliens in regulars.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Mar 9, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Good question!

I've aided a ton of pitches on both (meaning I actually stood on the piece and found out if it would hold or not, which when you're talking about blue/black alien size is not always a given) - the Alien all the way. The Master Cams have a more rigid head, which makes it much more difficult to place in flaring, offset placements.

From the early 2000s until Fixe bought Aliens (2010?) we all had to use Master Cams.....man with the Totem Cams now I just look back at those times and laugh - we had it hard!haha

Woot!
Erik
yosemitebigwall.com
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Mar 10, 2016
Thanks Erik. I've put the fixe offsets through the ringer and have nothing but good to say about their quality. Black diamond on the other hand, I've mangled my 2nd .4 in less than 5 months! I'm never buying another small c4 JeffL
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 14, 2012
85 points
Mar 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: On Playing Hookey, The Tombstone
The rubber on the Master Cam's thumb loops shreds easier than other cams if you use a fifi to top step. On such a small cam, that might be less of an issue (at least, I'm more scared to top step on tiny cams..). You can tape the thumb loops with electrical tape (find and use the same color as the cam's loop) to slow this down, but in my experience, it's going to happen. Adamant D
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 19, 2010
5 points


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