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(7) Marsupial Wall
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Off the Wall 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Collins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,372
Submitted By: Alan Collins on Sep 30, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Off the Wall features a compact crux followed by big overhanging moves on jugs. Start out on a jug left of the bolt line and climb through small crimps to get to the second bolt. True crux is after clipping the third bolt throwing to a jug, committing to the off the wall move. After the first anchor, continue up 2 more bolts following a seam to finish an even longer route. It doesn't add to the grade but it does add more fun 5.11 climbing.

If it is your first time out to the Marsupial Wall and you can climb 5.12, this is the line to make sure you get on. While the beginning is typical climbing for Smith Rocks, the overhang features jugs and big moves that will justify the long slog out. Closely placed bolts also make this a good lead for aspiring 5.12 climbers. Could be 5.11c or 5.11d.

Location 

Left Side of the Marsupial Wall, 2nd most left route as of now.

Protection 

5 bolts plus anchors


Photos of Off the Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging on some jugs
Hanging on some jugs
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the send train!
Starting the send train!
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Rielly managing to stay on Off the Wall
Matt Rielly managing to stay on Off the Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt 2nd Ascent
Matt 2nd Ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Hatzai tries to avoid coming Off the Wall
Chris Hatzai tries to avoid coming Off the Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof
Pulling the roof

Comments on Off the Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 1, 2014

Sounds like fun! Is the rock pretty clean?
By Alan Collins
From: Bend, OR
Nov 10, 2014

The rock is amazing where its hard. The rock gets less desirable at above the last bolt on 5.9 climbing, but nothing that would detour anyone from the route. The start of vision is way more choosy than above the last bolt on this route.
By J.C. Collins
From: Bend Or
May 2, 2015

Stoked to have ticked this one. Great route going from technical to overhanging jugs. Might be 11+
or 12-. Lots of fun.
By danieljordan
From: Portland, OR
Feb 12, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Sweet route! Wish it were a bit longer. Not sure about the grade! Pretty powerful moves off some pinch/undercling features low...to a good rest before tackling a steep finish. Somewhat ominous looking death block about 20ft up and left of anchors? Thanks for the routes Alan!

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