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Off The Rails 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Erik Pallister
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: EQP on May 5, 2016

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This aesthetic, steep, power-endurance test piece could be a classic anywhere - wickedly good!

O.T.R. starts with a steep, powerful bouldery crux, then trends up and left with sustained pumpy climbing on excellent rock, utilizing crimps, slopers, jugs, heal hooks and heel-toe cams... A cruxy section gets you below the large roof and into a strenuous kneebar that sets you up for the unobvious, yet rad crux. Do the last hard moves off heel hooks and slopers, then continue up on big holds and steep rock to the chains.


Cautiously scramble up to "Cowboy" ledge and traverse right past Cowboy Ejector Seat to a bolted belay below the steepest part of the wall.


8 bolts: 3 QDs and 5 permadraws.
Chain anchor with lower off biners.

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