Off The Hook
||Trad, Mixed, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: ||M5 R [details]|
|FA: ||Jeff Lowe, 1970s? Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin?|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||789|
|Submitted By: ||Wayne Crill on Feb 9, 2012|
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Off The Hook is a on the far right of the South face of Redgarden Wall in Eldo, just left of the end of the Wind Tower trail where it goes up the east slabs descent. Locate a series of three free hanging ice flows that semi-regularly form up enough to notice, less frequently enough to climb. Begin under the first overhang with two left-angling cracks, this overhang provides protection for the belayer from falling ice and or the leader. Climb mixed rock (M5/6??) up the overhang just left of the thin, free hanging ice until you can move up and right onto the ice (typically just over the lip) and up to the base of the second overhang (crux) either climb straight onto the free hanging ice here or climb a vertical, right-facing, flared overlap (no gear) for a few movies until you can reach the free hanging ice and climb the ice over the top to a tree. One more easier icy overhang puts you at the base of the east slabs and another tree you can rap 80 to the base of the climb from. Or continue another 100 up and left on fun, easy, lower angle ice up the left edge of the east slabs to the tree above . . . .
Off The Hook climbs a series of short overhangs and free hanging ice flows at the far East end of the lower Redgarden Wall. I have regularly seen ice form in this system, less frequently does it appear climbable. This route begins at a stance below an overhang behind a pine tree, right next to the trail. This is very near (just to the right, I believe) of the route Off The List
, .10d, just left of the top of the Wind Ridge approach trail.
Stubby and mid-sized ice screws and tricams, nuts, or small cams.
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Feb 9, 2012
I don't know about the grade, I'm horrible with this. It's really a series of 3 ice boulder problems. Do people just use an M grade for such things, assuming that any water ice is what it is? Shouldn't matter, I suppose. I also don't recall exactly when we did this, but I think it was the big snow and ice "storm" of January 2007.
I imagine it'll be forming up again now, maybe I'll try it again or at least snap some photos this weekend.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 5, 2015
I was directed to this from another thread. I've seen folks on this ice climb since the early '80s. I believe the first ascent was by Jeff Lowe in the late '70s. Several folks from the old Alpine School that was located in Eldo have also done it in the 1980s.