REI Community
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller  T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Off The Cuff 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b X

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b X [details]
FA: [M. Brooks, Pierce, Stuberg, C. Harrison, 1981]
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Larry Lindeman on Jun 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Stef Van Wychen on Off The Cuff at Lower Peanuts, ...

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The first pitch, as described in the Rossiter guide, is fun and worth doing if you have a few minutes. It is only about 30 feet of climbing (fingers- to hands-sized crack that can be jammed or done as a lieback).

    The second pitch is not recommended. As descibed in the guidebook, you climb a 10 inch crack behind a flake. I got into the offwidth, threw a sling around the top of the flake (the only real protection at this point), made a few offwidth moves, and swung my body to the outside of the flake. As my body was making the swing, the top several feet of the flake tilted away from the wall with me and then thudded back into place. There is a tiny (non visible) fracture through the flake. I nearly pitched off the climb while being clipped to a 500 lb. rock!! My belayer said that the top of the flake tilted so far away from the rock that she didn't understand why it went back into place. We have decided that the only reason it did, was because the momentum of my body was moving back into the wall when it tilted.

    Basically, don't do the second pitch until this flake falls.


    Standard Eldo rack.

    Comments on Off The Cuff Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jul 30, 2003

    It seems that this worrisome block has fallen off....
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 30, 2012
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

    Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Aug 8, 2012
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

    Fun, easy climbing, guarded by some lichen and loose blocks. Gear is sparse on top, but the crux is at the bottom. Makes for a good 100 ft pitch to the summit ridge.

    Take RPs and micro cams. A tall leader can get in a piece from the top of the decapitated flake before continuing on.

    Located 8 feet left of the clean "Fickle Finger of 8", left-facing dihedral. Start at a short overhand with a wide slot in it. Head for the obvious OW and tree reaching out at the top.
    By Justin Brunson
    From: Broomfield CO
    May 3, 2014

    So is the X rating obsolete then?

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About