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Off My Rocker 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Artz
Page Views: 328
Submitted By: Felix Duvallet on Jul 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This is really a great "sport" route that happens to be missing a bolt (but instead has a perfect mail slot to put a small cam in).

The first bolt is fairly high, another small cam can be used to protect the moves up to it. Then climb straight up, making long moves between good holds, with several nice rests. The balancy crux at the end is awesome!


Right of Bust a Move, near the waterfall.


4 bolts, but you should bring a few small cams to protect the runout after the 3rd bolt (the guidebook is incorrect).

The 2-bolt anchor is shared with Bust a Move.

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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 2, 2013

Purple or blue tcu is great between bolts 2 and 3. The crux on this route is one of the coolest sequences I've done anywhere.

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