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Of Quartz It Goes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Season: Spring, Summer & Fall
Page Views: 1,844
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Sep 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Of Quartz it Goes


Dingus McGee's guide book rates this route 5.6. I thought it felt a bit stiffer than that. Big quartz knobs gradually become smaller and slope the "wrong" way. A couple moves between bolts 4 and 6 make you concentrate... just as the wall bulges a bit... hence "my" grade.


As you approach from the West end of Far Downs, "Of Quartz It Goes" is the third bolted line you encounter on the North Face of the formation. NOTABLE LANDMARK: You must scramble up a small "boulder" to find the start of the route.


The first couple bolts call for quick draws. However, I would recommend shoulder length runners for the rest of this route as it wanders quite a ways to the right... and then back left to the summit.

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By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2009

How are the bolts on this? When I did this route back in the early 90s they were awful and far apart - I remember being terrified.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2009

Wow. Back in the day, I think it had 3 or 4 bolts, one of which had a hanger that was nearly rusted through. I'm not upset to see this route retro-bolted with permission, but I hope not every old sparsely protected route gets the same treatment.
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The vertical parts where just fun cruises, but the traverses were really tricky for the advertised grade-- particularly the 2nd one if I am remembering right...
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Bolts have been replaced and added. Been a few years since I have done this one. I forget how many there were honestly...
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

great route. the traverses weren't too bad and 5.7 seemed appropriate. the second short pitch with the 3 bolts was a blast too. i felt the crux was at about the 4th bolt on the 1st pitch and 1st bolt on the second.
By Jeff Moon
From: Rapid City, SD
Dec 12, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

About 2/3 of the way up, the route keeps wandering to the right and you will be looking up at a notch/chimney on the right and a face on the left. You won't be able to see the next bolt from here, but keep going right. I went left at this point and got extremely run out on the face. Once you climb up into this notch is when the route begins to head left towards the chains.
By Mike Housiaux
From: Rapid City
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

IMHO this route is one if not the best for the grade in this area. Don't let the grade fool you this is a very exposed climb with beautiful rose quartz holds. Definitely bring Alpine draws as the route tends to zig zag. Couple of thin moves and a few thinker moves between I believe bolts 4-5? You can either use 2 ropes to rap or 1 70m. If you only have a 60m you can climb to the notch anchor and then rap off the opposite side (east). Or you can rap down to Bards anchors and then rap off those.
By Kathryn H
Jul 13, 2016

Super cruiser and fun. However, a 70 won't quite get you down to the ground unless it's a pretty long 70. You have to downclimb the last few moves. If bringing beginners up this route I'd bring two 60s.

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